Art Deco circa 1920 – 1935

The Roaring Twenties as it was called is known as a fun-loving, decadent era. Women won the right to vote in 1920. With this development women became bolder and more independent. Women rebelled by wearing short dresses, red lipstick, and bobbed hair. Society embraced the new "modern art" brought about by Cubism and the Ballet Russe.

The boyish silhouette adopted by women was accessorized with long dangling earrings, long strands of pearls, diamond watches, dress clips and cocktail rings, and bracelets in multiples on both upper and lower arms.

Post-war also brought better prosperity. This broadened the market for platinum, diamonds and precious stones. Popularity of the white-on-white look carried over from pre-WWI days, with the addition of ruby, emerald and sapphire accents.

Society's emphasis on freedom of expression and uninhibited values gave rise to unexpected and dramatic combinations of materials in jewellery; for example, coral and diamonds, or turquoise and sapphire. Black enamel was often used to add contrast.

At the same time a random "jumble" of carved coloured gemstones, termed the "fruit salad" look, became popular. There are several beautiful pieces designed by Cartier in this look.

The influence of Cubism is apparent in the strong symmetry and geometry, and streamlined shapes of Art Deco jewellery. Geometric diamond cuts like the baguette, emerald, triangle, shield and calibre cuts were developed and widely used in jewellery.

In 1923 there was an archaeological landmark. King Tut’s tomb was discovered prompting a craze for Egyptian motifs like the scarab, sphinx and papyrus. Stones which had been used in King Tut's jewellery, like lapis lazuli, carnelian and chalcedony also became popular. India & the Orient also influenced design at the time with usage of carved gemstones, ivory, jade and highly stylized natural motifs.

The automobile industry also developed at this time. Art Deco culture came to symbolize speed and motion. Jewellery designs included motifs like autos, planes, arrows, gazelles and panthers.

Several unique jewellery forms enjoyed a particular prominence during this era, including dress clips, flexible diamond "strip" bracelets, and pearls worn as sautoirs or long ropes. The recent marketing of the cultured pearl created by the Japanese made these long necklaces more affordable. Also popular were diamond encrusted cocktail watches.

A historically important time, Art Deco continues to influence designers with several pieces of jewellery still being produced in this style.