In
enzyme finishing Cellulose/ Amylase enzymes are used. The single component
CELLULASE enzyme, alkaline-neutral cellulose, was introduced in 1992. This
mono-component enzyme produced high – contrast abrasion & gave very good
fabric strength retention. Hydrolysis of the cellulose, which is catalyzed by
enzyme, causes the surface fibers to become weakening & later removed when
subjected to fabric to fabric abrasion or fabric to pumice stone abrasion during
the washing. The temperature & pH used are dependent upon enzyme used.
Usually neutral cellulose (2 – 4 gpl) is applied at pH of 6-7
PEACH SKIN FINISHING USING ENZYMES:
Peach
skin finishes are given to Chinoes suiting materials, Denim material and for
Tencel fabrics. Tencel has high strength ( In dry & wet state) & dry
tenacity is almost equal to that of Polyester. According to Mr. Rodgers
production of the Peach – skin effect
requires that fibre be PREFIBRILLATED,
DEFIBRILLATED & REFIBRILATED.
Prefibrillation splits the surface hairs on
the fabric similar to stripping back the bark on a twig. It requires mechanical
action also such as tumbling in a wet processing stage. Prefibrillation creates
tangled masses of fibres. Defibrillation of the pills of fibre (Entangled mass
of fibres) with enzyme produce a very smooth fabric with almost no protruding
fibres. Any of the acidic, mildly acidic or neutral cellulose enzymes are
suitable for defibrillation. Refibrillation or secondary fibrillation produces
SECONDARY HAIRS on the fabric surface, generating the peach skin hair.
Prefibrillation is carried out in the desizing stage. Defibrillation takes
place in washing stage & for Denim garments the same process is used for
color washing also. Refibrillation is accomplished by agitation in the normal
softener application stage of wet processing.
Contributed by Vogue
institute of fashion Technology
I Like to add one more important thing here, Global specialty enzymes market is anticipated to exceed more than US$ 6.50 billion by 2025.
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