An orientation of fashion design industry in India

Fashion, not only include the apparel but it is applied art on lifestyle and accessories which are influenced by cultural and social conditions. Fashion design is a global and one of the fastest growing industries. Recently, India has come up in fashion. India is the largest exporter of fabric and second largest producer of silk which itself creates a background for fashion growth. The fashion in India is not only appreciated in India but also grabbed attention worldwide. Though there is an influence of the rich culture but also the Indian aesthetic talent has helped to succeed the industry.

Films and television has played a major role in fashion design where masses get to know trends which are changing day by day. The television, magazines, newspapers are educating about fashion which is influencing all ages and all classes. Designers are also playing major role in setting up the trend. Every year there are fashion events held where the designers are getting exposed globally.

Many designers like Ritu Beri, Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka, Manish Arora, Satya Paul, Abraham and Thakore, Tarun Tahiliani, JJ Valaya and Manish Malhotra and many more have given fashion the next step of success where Indian market has been recognized at international level. These designer clothes, accessories have become a symbol of status.

Fashion is also exposed through different fashion institutions. These institutions are training students professionally to make them ready future of fashion industries. Within few years some young aspirants have given a tremendous contribution even to grow the institutions and the fashion industry as well. Fashion jobs have become highly paid jobs where there is enough scope for designing industry as well as other related industries. Fashion industry jobs are open for retails, designers, forecast, management, marketing, product developers etc.

During several years, boutiques, fashion houses, stores, malls, export houses, garment industries, textile mills etc have been a tremendous success. The retail response has made International brands enter the Indian Fashion Market. Earlier, only the metros cared about fashion but today small cities are becoming increasingly fashion and brand conscious.

USE OF TECHNOLOGY IN FASHION DESIGNING

The word technology does not mean that it is connected to the IT world or Google, Microsoft, Intel etc…Technology is very important even in the fashion industry and textile industry. Nowadays technology is involved in all stages, the main use of technology in any kind of work is to simplify the human effort, and it is time saving and fast.  

 for e.g.: in the production houses there would be at least 10 to 20 styles running at the same time and each style would have thousands of pcs, it becomes very difficult for the factory to keep a track on all that is happening hence all the style/stitching details are entered and with the help of a software which will be developed for each organization the factory will be able to keep track on the status of the orders

In regards to fashion technology we often hear many words such as CAD, PDM, POS, ERP etc.. 

all these are soft ware developed to keep a track on or to ease the effort and also to save time e.g.: CAD CAM is used in the lectra department to make the markers and calculate the marker efficiency, Corel draw can be used in the design department and so on there is the use of technology in every aspect offashion design. 

  Technology does not only mean computers or soft ware it also includes the machines which are used for sewing , the cutting tools , embroidery machines,  pressing equipment , packing machines etc.. Machines are always evolving and changing over the years this happens only because of the innov ations in technology.

The fashion industry always needs to keep updating the machines and systems since fashion is also something that keeps on changing. The fashion industry is a very good example of how technology has evolved over the years

Trend Forecast – Views from India Fashion Forum 2011

  The fashion segment is almost second largest in India after food. In the next five years we can expect a 2-3 fold increase in apparel with a similar pattern in jewelry, if gold prices do not increase. So, there is a huge scope for business in fashion.

  India is a youth - dominated country. New categories are emerging as the youth gets a wallet and a voice. What is true and fascinating is the emergence of fusion. They are making discontinuous changes to their definition of fashion. Though the over lying want is of not being clones of each other and showing their cool quotient, the underlying commonality is promoting green and organic and the love of tradition.

  One of the speakers has underlined the need to look for the unexpected, in terms of proportion, colour and most importantly, texture. For Autumn 2011-12, the details would be hidden. Cancelled button plackets and pockets would allow fabrics and textures to play the key role. Digital printing would provide interest with subtle optical patterning.

Printing would move to jackets, coat and even trousers. Perspectives would be from futuristic to technological aspects to ancient rural traditions. Clever cutting and precision construction would really put shape at the forefront. On the colour palette the greys, chambray, reds and greens would dominate.

  For accessories, quite chunky knits and furs on bags and shoes would have the home crafted look and designs driven by functionality would rule.

  Ancient primitive aesthetics mixed with a very precise contemporary look will be seen during Spring Summer-2012.

  An important trend in the retail segment would be do-it-yourself. More and more brands would invite customers to translate their preferences into products, such as creating own fragrances and customized t-shirts. Technology will play a vital role in the future of the fashion retail industry.

  Constant change through innovative ideas about product range and display will keep the interest of the consumer. Surprise should be the key element. 

Non-Store Retailing

In the world of internet, virtual stores (on-line stores) are becoming more popular. This solves the problem of increased real estate prices. Marketing is also done purely through news paper, catalogue and television. While it is nearly impossible for every brand to reach all the cities through stores, virtual retailing has made it possible.

  Online retailing has its own disadvantages. The most important one being the delivery of the purchased product to the customer unlike in physical store retailing, the customer walks into the store, picks, buys the product and carries it along.

Secondly, it is about setting the right expectations with customers. Sometimes the product looks very good on the screen or the catalogue but it may not meet the customer’s expectation when he gets it. This may have a negative impact on the brand’s image.

The next challenge is the payment as most of the people are not comfortable with credit cards and net banking, so cash on delivery is a good option. Equal amount of focus on physical and non store presence is what is needed to get the best of both the worlds.

New technologies for fashion forecast

  You see a cool style on the screen today and in 45 days you have it in the store. Thanks to the fashion scouts and super fast procurement and delivery systems, this is now a reality.

 Designers should have a good understanding of what consumer needs and what influences them. Thanks to the internet and to highly efficient trend portals on the internet, it is possible to access the international trends from one’s own desk.

The designers then use this information and using their ideas and creativity make design sketches along with the details like processing requirements, the various fabric options, trims requirements. This data is compiled in what is called the Product DataManagement (PDM). PDM is accessed by the developing team, either in-house or at the manufacturer’s end through the internet.

  Mood boards are digitally created which shows the colours, design and the mood for the particular collection. Animated 3D visualizations, also called ‘virtual catwalks’ are used to show the collections to the sales team. Hence, the process of preparation of actual samples is eliminated for the regular basic products, though new developments may need a prototype to bring together the design, fit, price and quality and to ensure that they are appropriate for the target customer. The softwares used are very user friendly and also help in minimizing the time required to do a task. The patterns are done using the software while considering the drape and elasticity of the fabric. The cutting and grading starts with 2D pattern and dresses the virtual model. It also shows details like fall of the fabric, areas where there is stretch, depending on the parameters entered. The corrections made on the 3D image are converted into the 2D form.

  The PPC (Production Planning and Control) tool indicates the available capacity and length of production time to delivery. We can also get history of sales which helps in forecasting initial sales.

  All this put together helps in achieving the jet speed availability of goods in the stores, reducing the cost, time and travel in the due course.   
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Facts and general awareness about fashion and textile industry

The importance of ethical business is increasing and the consumers are becoming more aware regarding the same and if something doesn’t appear right, they will shout about it, media will dishonor the company in question and the brand image can be ruined.

Every exporter is taking care and addressing issues like sweat shops, child labour, poor wages, forced overtime, etc. the other important challenges are eco-friendliness, sustainability, traceability of hazardous substances and these should be implemented throughout the supply chain.

  From the issue of forced labour in the cotton fields of Uzbekistan, to the amount of water used in dyeing tee shirts, noxious chemicals used in finishing process, methane emitting sheep destroying the ozone layer, forced overtime in Chinese clothing factories, every aspect of supply chain should be monitored to avoid unethical business.

  Facts:

Textile waste occupies nearly 5% of all landfill space; one million tons of textiles will end up in a landfill every year. According to the World Bank, 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing. In 2009, the world used three trillion gallons of fresh water to produce 60 billion kilograms of fabric; it takes 700 gallons of fresh water to make one t-shirt. One trillion kilo watt hours are used every year by the global textile industry which equates to 10% of total global carbon impact.

  There is a request for more and more buyers around the world to their suppliers to take care of ethics part as well as to be more eco-friendly. There is a wealth of eco certification and legislation such as REACH. Systems and controls need to be in place to monitor. Machines and equipments are becoming more environmentally friendly with lower noise, emissions, lower energy consumption and using less oil lubricant,

  This concern is affecting all aspects of life, including the purchasing decisions of the end customers. They want to know that the garment they are buying and the way it has been produced is sustainable. That is, it meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.

The Unique Art of Thewa Jewellery

The origin of the Thewa form of jewellery is said to be from Partabgarh (or Pratapgarh), a small province in Rajasthan. Unique to this small town, the Thewa art is a secretly guarded technique. It has been handed down from generation to generation of certain craftsmen who call themselves Raj Sonis. 

Thewa locally means setting. It originated in the eighteenth century. This form of jewellery gained popularity among the British residing or visiting India at the time. The Victorian and Edwardian women of the time incorporated finely crafted Thewa pieces into their jewellery. It was often picked up as souvenirs and several magnificent pieces of this art form are found among estate jewellery.

Historians of the time often described this technique as “quasi” enameling or “imitation” enameling as the jewellery often resembles the enamel technique with its coloured glass background. However the actual craft is very different from enameling which uses ground coloured glass melted onto the metal.

The technique starts with fine gold sheets of the highest purity (24 Karat) patterned with the design. Traditional Indian subjects are often used as designs. The gold is worked on lac to enable the delicate openwork creation of the design. This is then heat fused on to a clean piece of glass with extreme care and skill. A bezel unit which is similar to the closed setting used in Kundan style of setting is created. This probably is the origin of the name of this craft form. A highly polished piece of foil which is made of silver or tin is placed inside the bezel unit to form a backing for the gold and glass unit. This increases the light passing through the glass and intensifies the colour and brilliance of the piece. Sometimes the backing foil is also coloured to improve the hue of the glass.

Today Thewa Jewellery is produced in several popular forms like necklaces, pendants, earrings etc. The art form is however unique and specialized. This makes every piece of Thewa Jewellery a treasure to possess.

Blushing beauty - Rose Gold

Shimmering yellow and sparkling white have always been the preferred colours when it comes to jewellery. But 2011 has heralded the emergence of the blushing hues of Rose gold.

From clothes to footwear and watches to bags, the exotic rose gold metallic sheen has been at the forefront of trendy design this year. Jewellery designers have also caught on to this trend and we see designers like Cartier, Chopard, Boucheron, Michael Kors etc adopting this metal in their collections.

Rose gold also known as pink gold is an alloy of gold and copper. Gold is always alloyed with some other metals to make it durable for use. The ratio of gold to copper gives us the various hues of rose gold, ranging from subtle pinks to brighter reds.

Although rose gold has been around for a long time it has been relegated as a less popular colour of gold. Consumers have always swayed towards the traditional yellow and white colours. But jewellery is becoming more than just a security asset today. People are wearing jewellery to enhance their personality. 

So even though classics never go out of style, consumers are ready to experiment with new looks and materials. With rose gold as a hot trend this year, fashionistas are ready to snap up the latest rose gold jewellery. Even the more conservative are at least willing to experiment with a rose hued watch.

Rose gold is a lovely combination of the hot and the cold. It suits almost every skin colour and offsets diamonds beautifully. But several gemstones are also enhanced by this gold colour.

Where trends are in discussion can Hollywood be far behind? Celebrities like Cameron Diaz, Claire Danes, Nicole Richie, Halle Berry and Rihanna have been sporting trendy or classic jewellery pieces in rose gold at major events.

So if you don’t own rose gold jewellery, now is the perfect excuse to head out and snap up one of these exotic beauties. Blush on and be ready for admiring glances.